Trip to the Outer Hebrides - Episode 2

 

    

 

A mongrel wandered around the village.  Later a west Highland terrier appeared.  We got a cup of tea 
when the shop opened and watched the ferry come in from Tarbert.  Three hours later after 
landing at Lochmaddy we crossed the causeway to Eriskay.  It was a beautiful warm,sunny day. 
We set up our gear then crawled away for an afternoon sleep.  Am Politician, the only pub in Eriskay, was recently 
bought by Morag MacKinnon and Margaret Campbell.  Morag was on holiday so Margaret 
and hubby Joe were looking after us.  The Politician, named after the famous whisky galore ship 
was recently refitted.  It features several relics from the boat, including a near full half bottle of whisky. 
It's a clean, comfy hostelry and the conservatory at the back ensures lots of daylight not to mention a wonderful 
backdrop to our gig with the hills and beaches of Barra tantalizingly close and stunning in the evening sun. 
It was the Politician's first stab at putting on a concert and they didn't know what to expect.
A crowd of 25 to 30 forewent the May sunshine to hear us.  It turned out a very hospitable and enjoyable evening. 
En route to Lochmaddy in North Uist the next day and after an enormous Highland breakfast we dropped in
on Judy and Eric Twelve who had invited us on a boat trip to see the rugged uninhabited east side of South Uist.

    

A calm sea and sunny weather ensured a very pleasant two hours.  Afterwards I phoned John Love 
of Scottish Natural Heritage.  I know John through his work with SNH in re-establishing the white tailed 
sea eagle in Scotland, a project which began in earnest in the 1970's.  As luck had it, and luck features often 
in this story, when I phoned him we were only 500 yards from his office.  So off we went for a quick 
coffee and a blether before setting off for Lochmaddy.  The Uists and Benbecula are fortunate in having 
many bagpipers.  Well known pipers Iain McDonald and Fred Morrison live here.  And so many youngsters 
want to learn pipes that they don't have enough teachers.  I reckon a pipe playing dentist could make a fortune here!  
Fiddlers however have been thin on the ground.  Fred's wife Deirdrie, who was our contact for the gig, is a great 
fiddler and she has single handedly changed the situation.  Now these islands have a healthy number of young 
fiddlers coming through to compete with all the pipers and accordion players.  What a pity therefore that arts 
council money, which funded her teaching, has come to an end.  After our performance in Taigh Chearsabhagh, the 
impressive arts centre in Lochmaddy we treated ourselves to a nightcap in the nearby hotel before retiring to 
our B and B, the old Lochmaddy courthouse where we voluntarily locked ourselves up for the night.

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